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when a cam is placed in the right spot, it will be very stable. this is the reason that you often find yourself using cams more than any other piece. when the rope is perfectly placed, the cam will rarely need to be placed at all. offset cams are perfect for this kind of situation. they are notched out from the center, which means that when they are straight in a crack they have the most stability and only need to be placed on the edges of the crack. they do not walk, and they are the easiest and most commonly used cam type.
totem cams were developed to provide more holding power than offset cams by being able to hold two lobes at a time. this is due to the unique shape of the lobes. the cam has two plastic stems that join in the middle, allowing you to place two lobes at a time, or load both sides. because the cams lobes each function independently of the other, they are extremely versatile, and can hold more in the same space than offset cams. additionally, because they are not notched out from the center, they are often placed on the edge of a crack, where they are not affected by things like rope pull, and usually have the most stability. also, they can be placed deeper in the crack, making them great for aid climbing. totem cams are the most versatile cams you can buy.
it is an internet based application and not a stand-alone application, meaning that you have to install the application on your pc in order for it to work. you will need to have your pc connected to the internet, a stable internet connection, and at least 500 mb of free space on your hard drive. you will also need the application itself to be installed on your computer. there are some cracked versions of the application available on the internet, but we cannot recommend using them because we do not feel they are safe to use and have not tested them.
the black diamond ultralights are the best camming package we tested. they are light, have enough cam coverage to protect a lot of cracks, and can be used on a variety of different terrain. our verdict:
in the list of the most common cam placements, the black diamond friend comes in a close second behind the wild country friends, which are placed in the same types of cracks. however, the distance between the friend lobes are so large that the friend is the most common cam that is placed in the cracks of medium size and smaller ().
i don’t understand this. to me, an alpine cam is just a cam that has a bail attached to it so it doesn’t slide down and fall off the crack when the rope is pulled. i think that the only difference between a cam in an alpine draw and a cam in a sling is that you can catch the cam when it falls off the crack. the sling and the alpine draw are both secure, but one allows you to catch it, the other does not.
in most cases, the wild country friends are placed in the cracks of the same sizes as the black diamond friend. the major difference, however, is that the wild country friends are placed a bit closer to the edge of the crack than the black diamond friend. this means that, while they both hold a similar amount of weight, the black diamond friend will pull more than the wild country friend.
the problem with placing a cam in the middle of a very narrow section is that sometimes the cam can be pulled through the crack. camalots are not a perfect solution to this issue because they are double-axle cams. camalots are available in only three sizes (12, 16, and 20), and their lobes are set very wide, so they are not recommended as the middle piece of a pitch.
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